Author Archives: Andy Gotts

News – 21/08/2019

A few comments received lately suggest that there might still be some interest in these pages, so here is an update. I’m sorry that I missed some of these comments at the time – the alerts had gone into my junk email folder. I’ll keep a look out for future comments.

ST1100 Final 01

I rode the ST1100 for a few hundred miles after completing the rebuild, but I realised that what I wanted from a bike had changed, and the modified PC800 suited me better. Rather than trash my work and start another rebuild, I sold the ST1100 to a fellow Pan European enthusiast in September 2016. It appeared on the cover of PANtasia, the magazine of the Pan Clan, in May 2017 – honour indeed!

PC800 X10 After

I’m still using the PC800 (which I think of as the GL800). The intended smartening-up has not happened yet, but maybe this winter? I did replace the windscreen and modify it to cut down turbulence and increase ventilation. It’s been very reliable, though reluctant to start after a few weeks of not being used, and does cover its engine in a fine oil mist from the cam covers (a common problem). I had the seat rebuilt with a gel insert which made a big difference to comfort.

DL650 pic 1

I acquired this bike last spring – a stripped-down 2006 Suzuki V-Strom DL650. This is the state of it when I bought it. It had been written off, then put back on the road, but the modifications were quite badly done, so I had to spend a lot of time putting them right. I haven’t changed the appearance much except for cleaning and a bit of paint. It is great fun to ride.

If anyone would like any more information on these bikes, I’ll try to oblige.

News – 25/05/2016

ST1100 P4 N4 May 2016

My naked ST1100 passed its MoT test at the second attempt on 12 May 2016. Here it is outside the test station with an unmolested Pan behind it. Mine had failed on notchy steering bearings, which I got the bike shop to replace with taper roller ones. They also did an engineer’s report to persuade the insurance company that it had been repaired to a road-worthy standard after having been an insurance write-off (in 2007!). Thanks to Full Trottle Motorcycles of Warwick for being very helpful.

The bodywork paint is Halford’s Volkwagen Pacific Blue Pearlescent from rattle cans, with a slightly too-thin coat of petrol resistent lacquer on top. I had intended to change the handlebars for wider ones, but the old ones seem OK, and keeping them saves replacing the brake lines with longer ones. It’s more fun to ride than I remembered, but I miss the ability to bung a change of clothes in the panniers, now that it’s got no luggage capacity. I took it to the Rugby Bike Fest last Sunday, and had to carry my riding gear around in a rucsac. The bike got a few curious looks, but it’s not in show condition, with the paint on the frame and exhaust looking rather tired.

The tyre deflation problem on the PC800 was solved with Slime in the back tyre (thanks to my friend Robin’s suggestion – may your Harley’s troubles be over). The temperature gauge was fixed by running a wire from the thermostat housing to the frame to restore the temperature sensor circuit. I’ve cut two vent holes in the old windscreen (and cracked it again in the process) which has helped with the problem of the exhaust being sucked forward by the low pressure area behind the fairing. It passed its MoT test first time again! It looks quite scruffy beside the nice new paint on the ST1100, but riding is more of a priority than appearances this summer.

News – 26/03/2016

I’ve cut down and re-shaped the old the ST1100 side panels (which were cut-down and re-shaped original panels), and tidied up the front panel and tail-piece. On the occasional milder day I was able to take all the panels into the garden to spray them with primer. For a bit of encouragement I put them all on the bike and took a few photos.

ST1100 P4 N2 Mar 2016

ST1100 P4 N1 Mar 2016

There is still work to do – such as mounting the number plate, final bits of wiring, finishing painting the panels and re-painting the exhaust pipes – but the objective of having it MoT-ready is in sight. It won’t be finished then, but it might be on the road.

The PC800 passed its MoT after I’d cleaned the brake pistons and fitted the new windscreen (in case the crack in the old one might be a fail point). Still got to sort out the air leak from the back tyre, fix the temp gauge and find a solution to exhaust fumes being dragged into the bubble of still air behind the fairing, but at least it will be rideable when we get a decent spring day.

ST1100 Miscellaneous Metalwork

First attempt at welding

My first bit of welding, other than practicing on some scrap, was to add some angle strips to the rear frame to support the battery – I wasn’t confident that a fibreglass tray on its own would be strong enough. The orange bit of fibreglass is where the top of the mudguard had to be cut away so the battery could sit lower down.

ST1100 P4 M02 Metal

The seat catch for the dual seat was originally fitted under the rear cross-member, with a metal loop from the seat going through the slot to engage the catch. Re-using the catch seemed like a good idea, so another bit of steel was welded on in front of the battery tray to attach it to. Luckily these welds will all be hidden from public view. The catch used to be operated by a cable connected to a lock, but as the only thing under the seat now will be the fuel tank, a simple wire pull will do.

ST1100 P4 M04 Metal

Brackets – alloy and steel

The left-hand footrest bracket also supports the starter relay and reg-rec. I would have liked to move these components as they stick out a bit and may spoil the lines of the side panel, but there was no-where obvious to put them that would provide a decent heat-sink for the reg-rec. Pan European reg-recs are generally immune from the failures common to other Hondas of the 1990s, probably because they are bolted to a big chunk of alloy and don’t overheat – that’s the upright bit with the projecting bolts in the pic below. The battery used to sit on the plastic tray to the right of it, which was part of the mudguard moulding.

ST1100 P4 M06 Metal

 Having decided to let the relay and reg-rec remain where they are, I cut off the rear part of the bracket, as part of the plan to visually shorten and lighten the bike. A bit of rounding off might improve the cut edge.

ST1100 P4 M07 Metal

The plastic moulding that the starter relay was attached to was part of the battery tray  moulding, so I had to make up a new bracket that could be fixed to the footrest bracket. A trial-and-error card template formed the design, and a bit of the cut-off fuel tank hump supplied the material.

ST1100 P4 M08 Metal

ST1100 P4 M10 Metal

It was while re-attaching the brackets to the bike that I noticed a little bit of water seeping from a bubble in the swing-arm. Prodding with a screwdriver found some serious rot, necessitating a new swing-arm – very disheartening and the main reason that I didn’t touch this project for another 12 months and got on with the PC800 instead.

ST1100 P4 M12 Metal

With a new-ish and very expensive swing-arm eventually installed I did a bit more cutting down of the footrest bracket on the other side. Still not quite right somehow, but getting the bike on the road is now more important than perfection.

ST1100 P4 H12 Exhaust

News – 02/02/2016

Recent updates: 31/01/16 ST1100 Lights, Clocks & Fairing

Garage Jan 2016

Two bikes, nothing to ride. The PC800 is laid up with seized front brakes and a leaking back tyre. The brakes are a mystery – I replaced the pistons and seals in the calipers last year and it’s not been out in the wet since then. They only seized up a few weeks ago. I don’t fancy rebuilding them again, so I’m avoiding it by getting on with the ST1100. Progress is being made on the front fairing panel, clock & warning light housing and back-end bits and bobs. I think I’ve got the dummy tank surface to an almost paintable state, ready for when the weather allows outdoor paint spraying.

ST1100 Electrics

ST1100 P1 C04 After

The first bit of electrical work I did on the bike was on the original conversion to naked form. The front fairing subframe had brackets for various relays and the ignition control unit (ICU). Having scrapped the (bent) subframe, the relays went behind the headstock, sharing space and bracket mountings with the ignition coils. The ICU went on a now-redundant subframe mounting bracket. None of this required any wiring changes, though I did pull out nearly a kilo of wire and a few relays that were not actually doing anything – probably a failed attempt at hazard warning lights. The new indicators were just connected up to the original wiring with chocolate-block connectors – one is visible as a bulge in the wire behind the horn.

With a more radical re-style, a bit more electrical surgery was needed to move components around.

For reasons best known to Honda, the indicator relay was behind the right side panel but all the wiring goes to the front of the bike, so it made sense to me to relocate it. This was just a matter of stripping the outer cover off that part of the wiring loom, putting the relay on the front of the airbox. For neatness sake I shortened the wires – just cut a chunk out of each, slipped on a short length of heat-shrink insulation, solder together.

The fuse box was to be moved from behind the back of the left side cover, to the top of the airbox, as was the ICU. In this picture the fuse box (red wires attached) is resting on top of the under-seat fuel tank on its journey north.

ST1100 P4 E06 Electrics

As you can see above, a lot of the wires were tangled round each other in the loom, necessitating more cutting and joining before the fuse box could be re-homed. Most of the wires to the fuse box come from the front of the bike and needed to be shortened, but a few come from the back and needed to be lengthened. Fortunately I have a cardboard box full of old bits of bike wiring – I can’t remember quite where or when I acquired most of it. To extend wires is the same process as shortening them, except for splicing in an extra bit, preferably of the same or similar colour, though not always possible. I prefer to keep both ends in the original colour and have a different colour in the middle if necessary. All the joints are soldered – it’s worth learning the art. I found I needed a 40 watt soldering iron to cope with the cold in the garage.

Here the wire-extending is done, wire shortening not yet done. For now, all that spare wire is wrapped round the top of the airbox, and it might stay that way for a while. It looks horribly complicated, but by dealing with one wire at a time it’s not difficult.

ST1100 P4 E08 Electrics

The fuse box actually ended up where the ICU had been, on the left of the airbox, with a vague notion that it might be more accessible there.

With the battery now further from the starter relay it needed a longer red ‘live’ lead. I un-soldered the terminals for the relay and battery connections from the original wire and soldered them onto a length cut from a set of old jump leads. It needed a blow-torch to supply enough heat. It was comforting to know that old Pan Europeans are being broken for spares all the time, just in case I lost or destroyed any vital component. The black ‘earth’ lead was already long enough.

ST1100 P4 E10 Electrics

The only other significant bit of electrical work is replacing the old warning lights with an LED panel – covered under ST1100 Lights, Clocks & Fairing

ST1100 Lights, Clocks & Fairing

ST1100 P3 X07 ed After

Part of the redesign started in 2012 was to get rid of this modified Triumph Tiger front panel. I thought it looked great when I first finished it, but now it seems to look too much like the old Avon fairings that the police and AA used on their BSAs, available today on eBay for 99p. Replacing it with an off-the-shelf supermoto/streetfighter fairing would look silly – just a cop-out. I tried a traditional round headlight as originally intended, but it looked a bit boring. It would also mean having to make a decent-looking mount for the instruments and fix up a fly screen for a bit of wind protection.

By late 2015, in the interests of getting the bike back on the road as soon as possible, I decided to stick with the Triumph fairing. This would conveniently hide and protect the original instruments which I want to retain – mileage of 71k is to be proud of! Having lopped off the panel’s side bulges to slim it down, the brackets I’d originally made to hold the lights in and mount the fairing were lost. Here it’s just taped in place:

ST1100 P4 J01 Front

New brackets to connect the panel with the Suzuki GSXR lights were made from 3mm aluminium and held in place with filler as before. The brackets had holes drilled for the filler to ooze through and secure them. Tidying and painting yet to be done:

ST1100 P4 J04 Front

The fairing looked better when closer to the forks and lower down than before – this meant the clock housing would have to be cut down to remove the projecting mounting points (and make it look less like a car dashboard).

ST1100 P4 J06 Front

More home-made 3mm aluminium brackets bolted to the fork clamps now hold the fairing on. It needed another pair of brackets at the bottom of the fairing to steady it (not yet fitted in this picture). The untidy sides of the cut-down clock housing can be seen, needing some sort of disguise – yet to be devised.

ST1100 P4 J07 Front

The removal for the clock housing mounting points meant it needed a mounting plate, which could bolt to the existing tapped holes in the top yoke. I cut this from more 3mm aluminium, with holes for the speedo drive and clock lights, then carefully bent it round a curved former – in the wrong direction. Having hammered it flat again, I could not quite replicate the nice curves I’d got the first time, but it does the job, and won’t be visible normally. I just hope the re-bending has not weakened the metal too much.

ST1100 P4 J08 Front

The original warning light unit was too large to fit between the clocks and the modified fairing, so I decided to try LEDs – 10mm diameter 12 volt units that light up in various colours. The panel is made from 2mm polystyrene sheet, glued together with MEK solvent. Two brackets bent up from scrap steel are glued to the sides with Araldite. These locate it on the front of the clock housing using the screws that retain the perspex cover. I found it best to drill the 10mm holes for the LEDs slightly under-size and finish them with a file, to ensure they lined up neatly. Strips of copper-surfaced printed circuit board (PCB) connect up the common leads (3 needed to go to negative, 4 to positive, just to make matters more interesting). The non-common leads are soldered to a strip of PCB with the copper coating cut through to separate them. The wires cut from the from the old warning lights could then be soldered to the appropriate bits of PCB without putting any strain on the LED leads.

ST1100 P4 J10 Front

The LEDs were held in place quite well by their leads, but a few blobs of Araldite added after this picture made them more secure. Once I’m happy with the unit I will probably box it in to give it a bit more protection. They appear very bright in the relative gloom of the garage, and may need some smoked perspex over them.

ST1100 P4 J12 Front

The speedometer is installed to check that the speedo drive cable run is clear. It will have to come out again to finally bolt the housing in place, with M5 bolts through the base of the housing and the bracket. There is a slight crack in the perspex cover at the bottom of the rev counter aperture. There used to be two small lugs on the back of the cover and housing with screws holding them together. I used these to attach the housing to the top yoke in the previous incarnation, causing the crack – a regrettable bodge!

Painting will have to wait for warmer, drier, weather.

ST1100 Exhaust

ST1100 P2 X04 Exhaust

After its first year on the road the downpipes looked rather tatty – the rust was coming through the high-temp silver paint. They are supposed to be stainless steel, but they aren’t original Honda ones. I had a spare set of pipes in similar condition, on which I ground off the lugs that once held heat shields (lost before I got the bike). On a friend’s recommendation I took them to Reddich Shotblasting, who cleaned them up, coated them in aluminium then baked on high-temp paint again. Much cheaper than a custom-made set of pipes!

ST1100 P3 X20 Exhaust

They look neater, and the rust has stayed at bay, but they did discolour near the top after more use, so they may need annual painting (from a spray can) to stay looking good. I might get round to removing the belly-pan brackets too.

For the new cut-down version of the bike I didn’t want the heavy and dull old twin silencers that weigh about 5kg each.

ST1100 P1 C03 After

Having had bought an ex-display Scorpion end can at a show I decided to have a go at making a link pipe to join it to the exhaust collector box. This is where the link pipe would need to go.

ST1100 P4 H04 Exhaust

It would also need a blanking plug for the collector outlet where the original left hand silencer went. The only welding I had done was a bit of practice on scrap and welding some brackets to the bike frame to hold the battery under the tail piece. In other words I was a complete novice,  so I started on the plug before tackling the more complicated link pipe.

I’d acquired some 2 inch (51mm) mild steel tube for this – stainless would have been better but apparently it’s more difficult to weld. I cut a short section of tube, took out a few mm down the length and closed it up to fit inside the 48mm collector outlet, with a round bit of plate to go on the end. The benefits of practising on scrap soon became apparent when I burnt away the edge of the plate trying to weld it to the tube. Much welding and grinding later, I had a functional if rough and ready plug.

ST1100 P4 H06 Exhaust

I’d made a cardboard mockup of the link pipe and end can to get the design right before starting on metal, as shown in the ST1100 Redesign post.

The link pipe needed two bends, one just outside the collector to turn the pipe horizontal to clear the footrest bracket and another bend to turn the pipe backwards. The first looked to be about 30 degrees, so a simple cut and shut would do, but the second was 90 degrees and needed to be quite sharp to get the end can close to where I wanted it. A set of three 30 degree angles close together seemed a reasonable compromise. I recently learned that what I was going to make is called a ‘lobster back’, where a series of triangular slices of tube are welded together to make a bend.

I practiced welding on an offcut of tube, but still burned away some of the first joint when I started on the link pipe, mainly because the cut edges were not straight and didn’t meet cleanly. I was doing reasonably well by the third joint when the electronics in my welding mask packed up. This meant having to flip up the mask to position the torch, then close it and weld with the window on its default, darkest setting, i.e. almost blind, so the fourth join was not very pretty. The final part was to make an insert to fit inside the collector. When I tried it in place, the first join was at the wrong angle, so I had to cut the pipe again and make another join. All this was made more difficult by using flux-cored welding wire in my second-hand MiG welder instead of investing in a bottle of welding gas and using plain wire. A lesson learned.

ST1100 P4 H08 Exhaust

The next step was to test it for gas tightness, by taping up one end and putting it in water – bubbles poured out of all the joins! There were so many holes I couldn’t mark them all, and just had to weld over every seam again. After a few more tests and re-welds, the bubbles finally stopped.

After each session of welding I ground off the excess – it looks better, and makes it easier to see where the pinholes are for re-welding. I was beginning to hate angle grinding, and the garage was covered with specs of burnt steel.

ST1100 P4 H10 Exhaust

This is the the point at which I decided I wasn’t going to improve it much more. Despite the terrible appearance it seems to be quite solid. High temperature paint should hide the worst of the pockmarks. It was a worthwhile exercise, but maybe one day I’ll get a professionally made stainless replacement.

Here’s a short video:

 

ST1100 Redesign

ST1100 P3 X11 AfterThe starting point, 2012

I tend to get bored with a bike after a couple of years, but this time with my ST1100 it was more a question of comfort and safety than boredom. The main problem was the seat – it’s was always too high, but now the foam had hardened with age, making long journeys a test of numb-bum endurance. Clearly, a complete redesign and rebuild was called for!

The seat needed to be softer, lower and narrower at the front, to allow me to at least get the soles of my boots down on level ground. That meant slimming down the side panels too. I also want the riding position to be more upright to alleviate lower back pain. More swept-back bars would need longer brake lines, and possibly longer control cables and wiring.

Cosmetically,  I wanted a more compact, neater, more integrated and more naked appearance. This would involve:
– cutting down the heavy-looking alloy footrest/silencer brackets,
– replacing the original silencers with a single not-quite-so-silent end can,
– smaller side panels,
– smaller (or even absent) pillion seat,
– neater tail end
– a new dummy tank to get away from the original look
– original instruments made as unobtrusive as possible.

I also wanted to be able to carry luggage, but the original pannier brackets would be too intrusive, so some other solution was required.

This was one sketch I did with a bit of cut-and-paste:

ST1100 P4 A02 Redesign

The battery and fuse box on the left and coolant bottle on the right would have to be moved from their original positions behind the long side panels. Having thought about this for ages, I’d concluded that the hump of the mainly under-seat fuel tank in front of the seat would have to go to make space for the battery. Some fuel capacity would be lost but there should still be about 20 litres left, enough for 200 miles. As a bonus, I could move the seat forward an inch or two.

ST1100 P4 A04 Redesign

In order to get on with the design I cut down a spare fuel tank and removed a small bulge at the back of the airbox to allow a lower line for the dummy tank (hoping it won’t affect the running).  I made cardboard models of things like the battery and fuse box to see how they might be fitted in. As a start for a new dummy tank I built a wooden frame round the air box and started to mock up a design round it. It was at this point that I realised that not only was the engine asymmetric ( which of course I knew already – the right cylinders slightly in front of the left) and the two sides of the frame different, but the airbox was slightly to the left of centre. No doubt Honda had their reasons, but it made redesign that bit more difficult.

ST1100 P4 A06 Redesign

Never having made a panel from scratch before, I didn’t know how best to go about it. The original dummy tank is made of some very tough and flexible plastic, not easy to adapt, so fibreglass seemed like a good medium. Normally you would make a mould, but there’s a lot of work involved for a one-off item, so I decided to make a ‘plug’ that the fibreglass would be laid over, making the finished panel a bit bigger than the plug. I wanted the new panel to fit closely round the top of the frame and the air box, so the plug had to be made of something thin. My first attempt was with card and PVA adhesive – very hard to get a precise shape and soon abandoned.

ST1100 P4 A08 Redesign

While working on this I decided against having the battery in front of the seat, as it would be next to the fuel tank filler – not wanting to have petrol and sparks in too close proximity. The battery would go behind a new solo seat, and leave a little storage space under the dummy tank.

I’d read that florist’s foam was good for carving, so I tried gluing blocks of it to the wooden frame. It’s certainly easy to carve, but hard to glue and very fragile. I also tried expanding polyurethane foam, the kind used for filling gaps in buildings. This was hard to control and had large air bubbles in it – not vey good for this purpose.

ST1100 P4 A10 Redesign

By this time many months had passed, the wooden frame was falling apart and I was still a long way from a design I liked – it seemed too rounded and dull. I started from scratch again with a cardboard mock-up just covering the bare essentials, and hit upon a sightly more angular design. The front projection is to hide the thermostat housing on the right side, which I couldn’t find an alternative location for. There would be room for various electrical bits at the front of the airbox, and I thought a coolant overflow bottle could be fitted in on the left side front projection, but didn’t go as far as working out how.

ST1100 P4 A12 Redesign

This time I tried making a plug from blocks of builder’s insulation foam glued together with Gorilla glue, which when set is similar to the insulation foam but harder. There was a lot of work in cutting off the aluminium foil outer skin from the foam, trimming blocks to a regular shape and carving out recesses for the air box etc. but the foam held together well. I had to cut away a lot at the front to ensure the throttle cables would not touch the finished panel, which in turn required cutting away in other places to make an acceptable shape.

ST1100 P4 A14 Redesign

After a bit more trimming back of the front projections I used it as the final plug for the fibreglass panel. The picture also shows a mock-up of a tailpiece. Using a cardboard replica of the battery I made sure there would be room for a sealed gel battery on its side underneath the tailpiece. I carved a plug from insulation foam for the outer shell, but it needed an inner shell too, so it could sit on the rear frame rails. There was also a need for a tray for the battery to sit on – not much design required for this, just some steel strip welded to the frame rails for support and fibreglass laid over them. Somewhere along the way I cut a few centimetres off the ends of the rear frame rails and found I could just squeeze in a cut-down CBR600 tail light between the remains.

ST1100 P4 A16 Redesign

The tricky bit was how to make an inner shell for the tailpiece that fitted over the frame rails and also fitted the outer shell. I wasnted the whole thing to be strong enough to take a bit of luggage strapped on. As with many other tricky bits, I dodged the detailed design stage and solved the practical problems later.

The seat was a bit of an afterthought, design-wise. I had an old ex-police single seat – the foam from it is in the pictures above. It seemed like an easy solution so I cut away some of the underside to lower it and cut a recess in the back of the dummy tank to match it, leaving the details of the seat design for later.

I knew I wanted a different exhaust, and having bought a Scorpion end can at a show, it just needed a way of connecting it to the 4-into-2 collector box. A cardboard mockup saved the can from damage while working out the pipe routing.

ST1100 P4 A18 Redesign

The masking tape on the footrest bracket was to try out the effects of different cutouts to reduce the visual impact of a large slab of alloy.

Another bit of design I put off was what to do with the instruments. An early idea was to keep the original clocks in a smaller housing behind a round headlight, with temperature and fuel gauges on top of the dummy tank. This was fine, but needed a new housing for the clocks which would not be easy to make. With the dummy tank and tail piece now almost finished, I tried out a round headlight, and decided it looked rather boring.

ST1100 P4 A20 Redesign

I wasn’t going to re-use the Triumph panel in the form it was on the previous version, so there was nothing to lose by cutting it down to see if it could be improved. By taping it in place on the bike and using masking tape I could get an idea of where to cut for the best result. Having cut off the side bulges and taped it back on the bike, I thought it looked OK – design by doing! It would need some new brackets, and to keep the more compact look the clock housing would have to be cut down, but I wanted to do that anyway. Hiding the clocks behind a fairing meant the unfinished look of the cut-down original housing would not matter so much.

ST1100 P4 A22 Redesign

By now the design had drifted away somewhat from the original rather hazy concept, and I’d dropped the idea of having much luggage capacity.

A few design details remain to be completed:

  • the front mudguard could do with being cut down a bit
  • the back mudguard and numberplate mount are yet to be sorted out
  • the side panels will probably be the old ones cut down as far as possible – some experimentation needed
  • colour scheme needs to be decided, but might be plain black initially just to get it on the road

My ST1100 – A Brief History

ST1100 P1 A01 Before

The picture above is before . . .

My decision to buy an ST1100 was a logical one. Having owned a few other big bikes from Honda, Yamaha, Triumph and BMW, I thought I knew exactly what I wanted, but no manufacturer produced such a bike. It had to be un-faired, have good acceleration for overtaking, be smooth, comfortable, reliable, low-maintenance, have a seat low enough for my shortish legs, be easy to balance and not too heavy. I wanted a multi-cylinder engine, about 100 BHP, shaft drive and an under-seat fuel tank for a low centre of gravity. A Pan European seemed to fit most of the criteria, but they had lots of plastic bodywork and a rather dull image.

Many years previously, I’d seen a Pan-European-based trike at a custom show. There was no fairing and the V4 engine had been made a feature. I thought it looked great, and though I wouldn’t want a trike, the idea of a naked Pan seized my imagination

The first re- incarnation of my Pan, in 2009, was like this – concentrating more on mechanical repair than aesthetics:

ST1100 P1 C02 After

I later cut down the lower side panels, made some side-pods to complete the ‘dummy tank’ and had a go at home-made fly-screen. Not a great improvement in looks!

ST1100 P2 X02 After

The last update before I decided on a more radical rebuild involved a modified Triumph Tiger front panel. Here it is in 2011.

ST1100 P3 X07 After

By the end of 2011 the bike had 70,000 miles on the clock, 10,000 of which it had done as a naked bike with me. The need for a new seat was becoming urgent and I wanted a radical new look – lighter and more compact, looking like it had been designed and not just lost a few panels. I probably wouldn’t have started if I’d known it would still not be finished as 2016 dawned. By then I was getting impatient to get it back on the road, and took every opportunity presented by the weather to finish off painting the new and modified panels. By the end of April they were done (with a few blemishes remaining).

ST1100 P4 N3 May 2016